Sri Lanka's East Coast: The Longer Way Around

NegomboEast coastSouth coast

A small island on the map does not always mean a short drive. Sri Lanka's east coast was the part of our holiday that made us think harder about distances, weather and where we would find dinner. We wanted to see beyond the southern beaches, so Arugam Bay and Passikudah stayed in the plan. There was space to wander, but also the practical side of travelling in a quieter season. Before leaving Mirissa, I was on the phone to the hotel asking what the weather was really like there.

This part of our nine-day Sri Lanka trip covers Arugam Bay and Passikudah, on the route towards Nilaveli.

Plenty of space, fewer places to eat

Arugam Bay was wonderfully quiet when we reached, but there was a catch: many eateries were shut. Fine for roaming around without crowds, not so convenient when it was time to eat.

Before doing that long transfer again, I would ask the hotel what food is actually available during our dates. We had thought about the beaches much more than dinner.

Days 4-6: Arugam Bay and Passikudah. AI-illustrated highlights from this chapter only, not photographs or a current transport timetable. Stops are grouped within the chapter rather than assigned to individual days.

A note on this archive story

From the travel archive, first published 23 Feb 2018. This is our experience at the time, not a current price or booking guide. Check opening hours, access, fares and services before making your own plans.

The east coast in the context of our full trip

This is the middle coastal leg of our nine-day Sri Lanka journey, not a replacement for the whole itinerary. We had already travelled through Negombo, Galle and Mirissa before heading towards Arugam Bay, Passikudah and Nilaveli. The wider route later included Sigiriya and Colombo.

First chapter: Negombo and the arrival day

Start here for the beginning of the holiday and the booking problem that changed our easy first stop. It gives the east-coast chapter its place in the full journey.

Second chapter: Galle and Mirissa

Read the southern-coast stretch before deciding whether to repeat our cross-island route. More places were not automatically better than more time in one area.

This chapter: Arugam Bay and Passikudah

The quieter season brought space to explore, but also closed eateries around Arugam Bay. Passikudah gave us another coastal pause. Those practical differences mattered as much as the photographs.

What I would keep in mind: The lesson I would carry forward is to check meals, local conditions and the length of the transfer together. A quiet beach is less relaxing if the day has become an endurance drive and dinner is still an unanswered question.

East Coast

Passekudah, Trincomalee, Arugam Bay, Batticaloa, Nilaveli, Kuchchaveli

Trip route: Negombo-Galle-Mirissa-Arugam bay- Passikudah-Nilaveli-Sigiriya-Colombo

Total Trip duration: 9 days

Type: Family with Kids, leisure

Average Cost: 75k INR (1250 USD approx) excluding flights

Read Here

Day 1 - What to do in Negombo

Day 2 & 3 - Sri Lanka West Coast Beaches

Weather:

Unlike many other Asian destinations, Sri Lanka is a true year-round holiday destination. You just have to know which side of the island to focus on in any given month, and this is never more important than when planning your beach destination. For that, you can break the weather in two zones.

The south-western monsoon brings rain to the south-west of Sri Lanka between May and September, while the dry season in this region runs from December to March. In contrast north and eastern coastal regions of the country, the weather is influenced by the north-eastern monsoon, which brings wind and rain between October and January, and drier weather between May and September.

As with many South-East Asian destinations, the period from December to mid-April is considered the peak season for overall weather and therefore overall visitor numbers. Though that remains a fact you can still choose transition periods often providing the best of both worlds; namely great weather and lower visitor numbers (Bargain deals on Hotels)

Travel Journey (Day 4-6)

The next leg took us towards Sri Lanka's east coast. The forecast worried us, so I called our hotel in Arugam Bay and asked what conditions were like locally. That helped us understand the situation, but it was not a reason to disregard official weather warnings. We planned a break in the long drive from Mirissa rather than trying to do it without a stop.

Udawalawe National Park

We encountered an elephant and offered it bananas. Looking back, that is a part of the trip I would not repeat: a wildlife sighting should not turn into feeding or approaching the animal. The memory stays in the diary, not in my recommendations.

Average cost of Jeep Safari for couple: USD 95

Accommodation: Not many good options, better to stay in Galle or Mirissa and take a jeep from there

Sinharaja Rain Forest

Sinharaja Rain Forest (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), is the last viable remnant of Sri Lanka’s tropical lowland rainforest spanning an area of 18900 acres. It a wonderful conserved rainforest which gives tourist two trails to enjoy the place to its full though beware of leaches :). The forest is densely crowded with tall trees growing in close proximity and winding trails make the trekking a paradise.

Small streams of crystal-clear cool water, that is home to a variety of fish, toads and crabs, crisscross the trails being home to mixed species of birds. As we heard a moderate difficulty level fo treks we decided to skip this for the time because of the kids.

Sinhagala Nature Trail

Trailhead: Entrance to the protected area, Kudawa Conservation Centre, Weddagala, Kalawana

Trail end: Sinhagala Peak

Length of the trail: 2.4 km

Rise in elevation gain along the trail: 300m at Trail Head: 473m at Trail End

Approximate time: 5-7 hours

Hiking Season: Best months are December to April

Mulawella Nature Trail

Trailhead: Entrance to the protected area, Kudawa Conservation Centre, Weddagala, Kalawana

Trail end: Mulawella Peak

Length of the trail: 2.4 km

Rise in elevation along the trail: 457m at Trail Head to 758m at Trail End

Approximate time: 1-2 hours

Hiking Season: Best months are December to April

Yala National Park

We saw elephant herds near the reservoirs at Yala. That was our sighting on that outing, not a promise of what another visitor will see. The safari was also tiring with a child, something I would weigh up before adding it to another family itinerary.

When to visit?

Throughout the year but best in June to September

Park opening hours

6 am to 6 pm

Mode of Game Drive -

by Jeep cost, approx 150 USD for a safari could be shared by 6-8.

The park is huge and could be roamed only by a 4-wheel drive due to muddy roads. Although our driver was a decent one and was trying best to avoid potholes still if you are with Kids it is very tiring for them and should be avoided.

Arugam Bay:

We reached our hotel in Arugam bay - The Bay vista around late lunch time. The hotel and town as such were completely deserted on account of it not being the peak season and which was good as we could roam around the town very leisurely as well as bad because that meant most of the eateries were closed.

There are some very good hotels nearby with their own private beaches and should be a better catch the hotels like Roccas which has a well maintained swimming pool overlooking the sea. As the area is still gaining popularity so the government is yet to invest more in this area which was quite evident as beaches in front of our hotel were crowded by fishermen and their boats.

The main beach of Arugam bay was not very clean although the high waves at evening made us realise why this has emerged as the most famous surfing destination in the country.

What to See?

Own the Road - Arugam Bay

We went out to explore beaches beyond the main stretch at Arugam Bay. Access was not always straightforward on our visit. Check current access locally and respect restrictions; do not use shortcuts to bypass a closed or restricted route.

1. Arugam bay Point:  this is the surf spot actually located in Arugam Bay.  Every morning you’ll see dozens of surfers out there catching some quality waves.  This is recommended more for intermediate to advanced surfers.

2. Whiskey Point:  About a 15-minute drive from Arugam Bay is this famous surf spot.  It’s a really beautiful beach as well and can provide some excellent waves for beginner surfers.  You’ll also notice heaps of people on surfing lessons.

3. Peanut Farm:  As per us the most beautiful of all and well maintained by Army. Only about 25 minutes from Arugam Bay this is awesome tucked away beach/surf spot.  Very popular, and highly recommend.

4. Panama Tank: Believe it or not but its a surreal site to drive through a narrow road with water on both sides and get this filled with crocodiles, yes you heard it right this place is famous for real-life crocodiles. Any night drive should be avoided for obvious reasons.

5. Panama Beach: A very direct to approach and clean beach with crystal clear water and stone cropping making this one of the most picturesque ones out of all available ones. The drive time was around 30 minutes but in opposite direction to Peanut Farm beach. We liked the setting for a family outing, but the appearance of the waves is not a guarantee of safe swimming. Check current local guidance and supervise children closely.

Cost:

 No entry ticket for any of the beaches

Tuk-Tuk rides are around 500 rupees one-way to Whiskey Point & Peanut Farm.

Where to Stay?

We stayed at Bay Vista. The quieter season made the town pleasant to explore, but many eateries were closed. That is the practical point I would check before booking again: what food is actually available during your stay?

Locals also mentioned villas and bungalows. We did not stay in them, so I cannot offer a firsthand recommendation. Confirm meal arrangements and access directly if considering that option.

Passikudah

One of the most famous destinations of eastern Sri Lanka and is dotted with all the major hotel and resorts. all the hotels have their own private beaches and are thus the most famous destinations on this side of the Srilankan coast. Though all this tranquillity and beauty comes at a steep price, but I guess when you are on a holiday you can splurge a bit. 

This place lies exactly between Arugam-Bay and Trincomalee and is an ideal spot for a break if you are on a road trip across this like us. We enjoyed the beach which was though filled with people but even then was very pristine. The waves are also not very high and it makes an ideal spot to build sand castles with your kids. 

Food

Food choices in this area are limited by the resort you are staying in as there is hardly any other good alternative. But even the resorts know it and hence they have all the cuisine in their in-house restaurants.

Where to Stay

Check current accommodation and meal arrangements directly. The old copied hotel-price listings have been removed because they were not our own stay reviews or current quotes.

What I would keep in mind

• Use our route as a starting point, not a daily mileage target.
• Confirm meals and check-in arrangements before a long transfer.

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