Winding Roads & Never Ending TalesFamily trips, wrong turns and the places we still talk about.
The Quiet and the Shinkansen: Our Vegetarian Japan Itinerary
What I remember most about Japan is not one famous place. It is how different the same holiday could feel from day to day: the trains and bustle of Tokyo, food searches in Osaka, Kyoto's old streets, and then sitting in Kamikochi wishing we could stay longer. Add a very enthusiastic father-daughter Harry Potter team and several Disney days, and you have our kind of family trip. Sixteen days sounded like plenty while planning. There was still so much we wanted to do when it was time to leave.
I have kept the full route here and split the days into separate parts. There was too much happening to squeeze it all onto one page.
In this article
An Indian vegetarian family's journey through Tokyo, Hakone, Osaka, Kyoto, Matsumoto and Tokyo Disney Resort.
Within the first morning we were figuring out an eSIM, looking at a huge Suica queue and then finding an empty JR East counter nearby. Later came the Rishi Kapoor conversation in Kamakura, a lovely doll-shop owner in Matsumoto, and a last-minute bus trip to finally see Fuji. These are the bits that keep coming back when we talk about Japan.
And then there were the things I had not planned at all: stopping to admire colourful manhole covers, figuring out that buying a convenience-store coffee first gets you an empty cup, and getting far too involved in my daughter's stamp collection. At one station I ran back for a stamp we had missed. Her little game had properly become mine.
The practical discoveries were just as memorable. FamilyMart hash browns and bread helped when our usual breakfast choices had gone, Disney had rice bowls we actually looked forward to, and a packed Tokyo train convinced us to send our big bags ahead. I have added those small lessons in the chapters, with the longer food and transport notes in the planning part.
Our daughter was eleven on this trip. Some days we managed everything I had planned; on others, we were tired, hungry or simply too late. There were a few upset moments and sitting-in-a-corner breaks too, followed by something yummy and a return to her usual self. Lesson for me: pehle khana, phir itinerary. The adults were not exactly at their most patient when hungry either.
And Daiso deserves a mention among our shopping stops. We bought lots of small things, including items we had never thought to look for back home. Going in just to browse was fun; coming out with nothing was apparently harder.
Travelled in May 2026. Practical links reviewed on 18 September 2026. Prices, menus, ticket rules and transport schedules can change.
Our Japan trip at a glance
- Travellers: two adults and an 11-year-old.
- Food: vegetarian, including eggs and dairy. We ate vegetarian and vegan ramen, egg sandwiches, dairy products and desserts. This was not an entirely vegan or egg-free trip.
- Style: independent travel, several hotel changes, a guided coastal day trip, and a Disney hotel stay.
- Budget: approximately INR 10 lakh for the family. See the budget notes for context.
- Our unexpected favourite: Matsumoto, especially the walk through Kamikochi and the people we met in town.
Choose your next stop
What each part adds to the journey
Tokyo, Kamakura and Hakone: the first four days
We landed at Haneda at 8 am, got through the formalities quickly and then started trying to sort out internet and Suica. That part took more figuring out than I had expected, until we spotted the JR East Help Center. Our hotel in Oshiage had Skytree right outside, which was quite a welcome.
The next day had Harry Potter at 9 am and teamLab at 3 pm, then somehow Odaiba got added as well. By the last walk we were promising our daughter desserts to keep going. Kamakura and Hakone followed, though Fuji stayed hidden on our Hakone visit.
Read this part: Tokyo, Kamakura and Hakone: the first four days
Osaka, USJ and Kyoto
The Shinkansen took us to Osaka for Dotonbori and USJ. The rides were great; finding a proper vegetarian meal in the park was harder. We ended up relying on fries and desserts, which I would plan better next time.
Kyoto brought station confusion, a bus driver patiently explaining the tapping routine, and some excellent ramen. We also got out to Amanohashidate and Ine. The chairlift with the sea in front of us was a lovely part of that day.
Read this part: Osaka, USJ and Kyoto
Matsumoto, Kamikochi and finally Fuji
Matsumoto really surprised us. We arrived during a festival, walked around the castle, spent a day in Kamikochi and got talking to an elderly doll-shop owner despite knowing hardly any Japanese. By the time we left, I wished we had more days there.
On the train back towards Tokyo, the Fuji forecast looked promising. So off we went on another detour, this time to Gotemba. Finally got our clear view of the mountain. Chalo, yeh wish bhi poori hui!
Read this part: Matsumoto, Kamikochi and finally Fuji
Back to Tokyo, then Disney
The last stretch was Asakusa and Disney. We stayed at Fantasy Springs Hotel and spent time in both DisneySea and Disneyland. Rain tried to spoil one morning, but we bought rain covers and carried on.
The final-day problem was entirely ours: I misread the airport bus timing. A taxi got us there in time, thankfully. That was one bit of excitement none of us needed.
Read this part: Back to Tokyo, then Disney
Food, bags and what we spent
We ate vegetarian food, including eggs and dairy, with quite a lot of ramen, sandwiches and desserts along the way. Some meals were excellent, others took a search. If you are vegan, egg-free or have other restrictions, your food planning will need to be different from ours.
The total was around INR 10 lakh for the three of us, with flights about INR 1.5 lakh. These are our rough figures, not an itemised bill. The planning part has more on the food, bags, trains and costs.
The mountains chapter now includes Frog Street and our doll-shop conversation, the City Museum of Art, sitting by the water in Kamikochi, and our round-and-round search for a platform at Shinjuku. The small things deserve space too.
Our route, without the scroll marathon
Days 1-2: Tokyo. Day 3: Kamakura. Day 4: Hakone. Days 5-6: Osaka and Universal Studios Japan. Days 7-9: Kyoto, including Amanohashidate and Ine. Days 10-11: Matsumoto and Kamikochi. Day 12: Mount Fuji detour and Tokyo. Days 13-16: Asakusa and our Tokyo Disney finale.
A couple of things we got wrong
USJ lunch was a struggle. The vegetarian options we found were limited. We ended up with sides such as fries and desserts, which was not what we had imagined for a full day at the park. Read the USJ food experience.
I also got the airport bus timing wrong. We missed our booked bus and took a taxi. Reached in time for the flight, but the relaxed shopping plan was gone. Read the final-day mistake and what I would check next time.
These were not the only things that went off plan, but we still had a wonderful trip. The chapters linked above have both the good parts and the bits we struggled with.
Would I do the same route again? Mostly yes, but with fewer things packed into some days. I would give Matsumoto longer, find the meals earlier, and definitely double-check that final airport bus.
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